Serenity Thompson

Archive: Blog 2007-2014

Tangier: 8 hours

It is absolutely possible to tap the surface of the soul of Tangier (Tanger) in as little as eight hours, between trains, flights or ferries. Though Tangier is one of those cities that begs you to walk around and get lost for a few days - and I suggest you do - that’s impossible if you are trying to make a connection to Europe or to another city in Africa on a same-day timetable. So here are the places to go to feel the history and complexity of this city when you want to see it and experience it with only hours to spare.

Getting to the City: This will be the most time consuming portion of your pop-in to Tangier. Follow these instructions and you will save time:

  • Getting to the city from the Airport: Obtain dirham (the currency, MAD) from the ATM at the airport. If the ATM is out of dirham, ask the drivers out front if they accept whatever currency you may have on you prior to getting in the cab. Most cabs do not accept credit cards. Get in and have the driver take you to the Grand Socco. There are several ATM’s along the circular drive of the Grand Socco if you were unable to obtain dirham at the airport and don’t have any other sort of payment, but they frequently run out of cash and do not have customer service agents for in-person withdrawals. Taxi will cost the equivalent of $25 euro, and you should add another $5-$8 for the tip.
  • Getting to the city from Tanger Med: Tanger-Med is a cargo and passenger port located about 40 km east of the city. To get to the city from this port, follow same directions as from the airport to save time. If money is an issue and you arrived to Tanger-Med by ferry, you can take the bus to Tangier for FREE. The free shuttle services operates between 10am until 12am. The coach is white and all that is needed is your FRS ferry ticket. This method is somewhat slower than a car.
  • Getting to the city from the Port of Tanger: Walk straight into the Medina. You can see it from the port as you are coming out, just look up to your right and there it is. When going out through the main port entrance/exit, you make a hard right turn and walk until you see a road which forms a sort of ramp, go in that way and your in (it is a hill). You can use Hotel Continental as your landmark. If you take this method, you will be besieged by dozens of kids offering their paid assistance to guide you. You can say no thank you or you can say yes - if you accept, they will offer their additional freelance guide services. If you want to avoid these young businessmen or have difficulty walking up hills, catch a petit taxi at the port and have them take you. It will be a short ride - 5 minutes. I’m not sure what the cost would be.
  • Getting to the city from the Train Station: There are two train stations - Tanger Ville and Morora. You definitely want to travel through Tanger Ville. It’s a much quieter and more efficient station than Morora. Tanger Ville is also the main station - the one that you’ll likely be at if you came from Casa, Marrakech, Fes, etc. It is about a 10 minute taxi ride to the Port of Tanger or the Medina. Agree a price with the taxi first - 20-25 dirhams should be enough. It’s too far to walk.

Congratulations! You made it! Here are some ideas for getting to know the city:

Get your Bearings and People Watch in Grand Socco (aka Place du 9 Avril 1947): This is the center of town where several neighborhoods converge, so is a transportation hub. It’s also the most useful, easiest-to-find reference point for your walk around the city. Have a tagine at one of the restaurants - I loved the food at the one with the green and yellow umbrellas, right on the street (if Grand Socco is a clock with Cinema Rif at 12:00, this place is at 9:00). Be sure to sit down and marvel at the architecture and marquee of Cinema Rif (and use the free wifi with all the other Tangerinos). There is a berber market to the right then behind the cinema. There are several green spaces around the Grand Socco where you can rest or have a chat. Bab el Fahs, the main door to the Medina, stands at the bottom of the Grand Socco.

Rock the Casbah: Walk up to the Casbah from the Grand Socco, wander around up there, then climb down through the Medina. Here’s how: From the Grand Socco, there is a street called Rue de la Kasba (aka Rue d'Italie) - it rambles directly alongside the wall of the Medina, about a 10-15 minute walk. Follow it all the way up - you will see the door to the Casbah (Bab Haha) on your right at the top, plus a small sign. Taxis can also take you but it will take as long if not longer due to the heavy foot traffic related to the Medina and the markets along Rue de la Kasba. Here is a map I drew for you - walking path in blue-purple:

Get Lost in the Medina: Wander down from the Casbah through the Medina. By now you probably feel more confortable and you have time to get lost. Make your way at some point to the Petit Socco and have a Moroccan mint tea at Cafe Central - oh this will give you a buzz!  I marked the Petit Socco on the map above.

Have a Farewell Drink at El-Minzah Hotel: During my trip in September 2013, Hotel El-Minzah was the only place in Tangier serving anything stronger than tea, which is why I am including it here. It’s not a local’s place by any means. It’s a 5 minute walk from the Grand Socco up Rue de La Liberte. Their bar was the prototype for Rick’s Cafe in the film Casablanca. The hotel also figures prominently in the pantheon of Hollywood stars who have made films in the area. If it’s cocktail time for you, head here.

Languages: Arabic, French, Spanish and English are spoken by most locals. I spoke Spanish the entire time I was there (5 days).

Attire: Be respectful. If you are truly interested in getting to know Tangier, it’s culture and it’s people, dress in a way that will facilitate a genuine, meaningful, and open exchange. At the very least:

If you will be in Tangier for more than a day, check out the Tangier Insider’s Guide post in Morocco Travel Guide Blog!

Serenity Thompsontangier, morocco, travel, travel tipsComment